Written by madnilk Wednesday, 27 January 2010 09:03

What will you do if there are some extra caps or money in hand. Most will spend it out most till none left, but smart people will make it far better into setting up some asset allocation to breed the money. I'll mention both about stocks and bonds withing this article.
Smart person already know when and what to do, nothing lest they learn the basic. So, today I'm going to put that basic into this article. As usual, before making any action or move let we go to the basic things of asset allocation:
1. Time is on our side.
Those with more years until retirement can afford to put a greater percentage of their assets in the stock market which versus 'term'. The longer time you have mean better term.
2. Stocks mean risk and return.
Those with a higher tolerance for volatility should put more money in the stock market than those in the same age group who have a lower tolerance.
3. College savings funds need stocks.
Since college costs are rising faster than inflation, no other investment will keep pace as well as stocks. Invest more in stocks when your kids are young, and as they get older move more money into bonds.
4. Get professional advice.
One of the best ways to develop an effective asset allocation plan is to consult a qualified financial planner.
5. Allocation is the key to achieving your goals.
Studies have shown that asset allocation is the single most important factor in determining returns from investing.
6. Know your stock funds.
Before you set up your asset allocation plan, you must find out the nature of the companies purchased by the mutual funds you own. It's not enough to go by the names of the funds themselves, either. In search of performance, far too many fund managers buy stocks that barely fit their portfolio's explicit investing parameters. So your "income" fund may, in practice, contain many stocks that should be considered "growth," or vice versa.
7. Know your bond funds.
Similarly, you must learn the same about the bond funds you own.
8. Don't rely on software alone to build a savings plan.
Software programs might not go far enough to devise your asset-allocation plan.
9. Determine your long-term goals.
Do you want to buy a sailboat after you retire? Or pay off your mortgage so you can write a novel? Figure out what your long-term goals are, and what they will cost.
10. Get started.
It's never too late to get started, and it's never too late to revamp or revise an asset-allocation plan.
Asset allocation is about not putting all your eggs in one basket. It's the ultimate protection should things go wrong in one investment class or sector, as is likely to be the case from time to time.
For example, many people loaded up on technology stocks in the late 1990s. When the market corrected in 2000, many of these investors experienced steep losses.
Or, you may put your money into bonds, among the safest of investments. Yet the bond market, too, has its up and down swings. Disgusted with that market, you put your money in a money market account. However, though virtually bomb proof, this market provides far lower returns. After all, less risk means lower rewards. And even modest inflation steadily erodes the value of your cash.
Moreover, a bad year in the stock market may show up as nothing more than an insignificant blip by 2015 or certainly by 2025. This is because the stock market is historically the best long-term investment vehicle - one that can deliver an average return of roughly 10 percent annually for those willing to stick it out for the long haul.
In the short term, however, the stock market is more volatile than other investments. Consequently, investors with less risk tolerance - and this generally includes people who are close to retirement age - should put less money into the stock market and invest more in bonds. Younger people, however, can take on more risk because they have a longer investing horizon.
Your risk tolerance and goals will determine how much you put into each of the three investment categories. If you make careful choices with your asset allocation, you'll earn better returns without losing sleep.
The ultimate financial goal, of course, is retirement. How soon you retire - and in what style - can be greatly affected by your decisions on asset allocation made earlier in life. In accounting for risk in your asset allocation, it's more productive to think in terms of your tolerance for volatility.
This is because one of the greatest investment risks is the risk of doing nothing - and missing out on superior returns.
Those retiring in 15 years but with little tolerance for wild swings may want to keep 50 percent in stocks and 40 percent in bonds, with 10 percent in a money market account.
If this person is planning to retire in 25 years, he or she might ratchet the equities holdings up to between 70 and 80 percent.
Those retiring in five years are faced with the daunting task of allocating their assets for maximum return without betting the farm. A nasty market dip could occur immediately before retirement, leaving your nest egg drastically short.
Achieving the right mix of stock types (small-, mid-, and large-caps) and bonds (short-, medium-, and long-term) to achieve maximum return for your volatility tolerance while maintaining adequate diversification is a tricky business, so you may want to consider consulting a qualified financial planner or adviser.
Before you actually invest in accordance with your newly minted allocation plan, you will want to do something that few individual investors do: Find out specifically what you own.
Most people don't know precisely what they own because their portfolios are dominated by an accumulation of mutual funds. If you strip away the marketing veneer of each fund and do some investigating, you can not only find out what the fund says it invests in, but also what it actually owns.
For example, some funds may call themselves small-cap. But, these same funds may veer into large-cap territory to boost their returns if their sector is out of favor. Your fund's 800-number reps should be able to give you information on this.
The need to determine what you already own is another reason to hire a qualified financial adviser; he or she would have a good handle on most funds. As your adviser would tell you, you must break these funds into their component parts to know what percentage of your assets is in small caps versus large, or in long-term bonds versus short-term.
There's been debate in recent years about the value of software programs in building an asset allocation plan.
Though there's nothing wrong with using software to take the numerical drudgery out of the task, these programs pose a problem: They lend an air of scientific certainty to a task that involves the subjective.
If asset allocation were really a pure science, then all programs would deliver the same results when fed data about the same investor. But they don't. The results vary widely.
The process of building an asset allocation plan involves judgments, and there is no such thing as a standardized solution. The matrix of possible asset allocations is virtually infinite, depending on your situation. The most important point to remember is that successful asset allocation depends on personal variables, such as one's age, risk profile, etc.
Note:
Most people must know what the scene behind investing world before making any action. Never, never, never left behind the basic of investing and asset allocation especially when talking about investing into any investment. It doesn't matter either in stocks, bonds, unit trust or any other type of investment. Always reach out for expert to gain advices and knowledge. That's all from me Daaaaa
Written by madnilk Tuesday, 15 December 2009 20:57

When planning for retirement, we must know what are the basic knowledge of inside out of it. People tent to forget crucial information and detail of several things.
1. Save as much as we can - start early.
Though it's never too late to start, the sooner you begin saving, the more time your money has to grow. Gains each year build on the prior year's - that's the power of compounding, and the best way to accumulate wealth.
2. Set realistic goals.
Project your retirement expenses based on your needs, not rules of thumb. Be honest about how you want to live in retirement and how much it will cost. Then calculate how much you must save to supplement Social Security and other sources of retirement income.
3. A 401(k) or Public Pension Scheme is one of the easiest and best ways to save for retirement.
Contributing money to a 401(k) (USA) or Public Pension Scheme (Malaysia - government servant) gives you an immediate tax deduction, tax-deferred growth on your savings, and - usually - a matching contribution from your company and nation.
4. An IRA or IRB (LHDNM) also can give your savings a tax-advantaged boost.
Like a 401(k), IRAs or IRB offer huge tax breaks. There are two types: a traditional IRA offers tax-deferred growth, meaning you pay taxes on your investment gains only when you make withdrawals, and, if you qualify, your contributions may be deductible; a Roth IRA, by contrast, doesn't allow for deductible contributions but offers tax-free growth, meaning you owe no tax when you make withdrawals.
5. Focus on your asset allocation more than on individual picks.
How you divide your portfolio between stocks and bonds will have a big impact on your long-term returns.
6. Stocks are best for long-term growth.
Stocks have the best chance of achieving high returns over long periods. A healthy dose will help ensure that your savings grows faster than inflation, increasing the purchasing power of your nest egg.
7. Don't move too heavily into bonds, even in retirement.
Many retirees stash most of their portfolio in bonds for the income. Unfortunately, over 10 to 15 years, inflation easily can erode the purchasing power of bonds' interest payments.
8. Making tax-efficient withdrawals can stretch the life of your nest egg.
Once you're retired, your assets can last several more years if you draw on money from taxable accounts first and let tax-advantaged accounts compound for as long as possible.
9. Working part-time in retirement can help in more ways than one.
Working keeps you socially engaged and reduces the amount of your nest egg you must withdraw annually once you retire.
10. There are other creative ways to get more mileage out of retirement assets.
For instance, you might consider relocating to an area with lower living expenses, or transforming the equity in your home into income by taking out a reverse mortgage.
To live well in retirement, you no longer can rely solely on a company pension plan or Social Security. Instead, you will have to depend on how skillfully you plan and invest, and whether you make good use of tax-advantaged savings plans such as 401(k)s and IRAs.
First, estimate how much you will need. One rule of thumb is that you'll need 70% of your annual pre-retirement income to live comfortably. That might be enough if you've paid off your mortgage and are in excellent health when you kiss the office goodbye.
But if you plan to build your dream house, trot around the globe, or get that Ph.D. in philosophy you've always wanted, you may need 100% of your income or more.
Remember, too, that your health care expenses are likely to go up in retirement, if only because you'll be paying more for insurance, especially if you retired prior to being eligible for Medicare, says Gordon Homes, senior financial planner at MetLife. Some employees who retire before 62 don't realize how much their employers contribute to health care, Homes says, which has led some to consider retiring after 65.
Second, figure out how you'll meet those expenses. There are three main sources of retirement income: Social Security, pensions and annuities, and your savings. Start by determining your estimated Social Security benefits.
Next, add in any annual payouts you expect from an annuity or company pension.
If it's not enough, it's time to think about where that money will come from. Count on needing at least $15 to $20 in investment savings to cover each dollar of that shortfall. If your projected retirement expenses exceed Social Security and pensions by, say, $20,000 a year, that means you'll need a nest egg of $300,000 to $400,000 to bridge the gap.
Your retirement savings are sacred, so you don't want to take crazy risks. That doesn't mean you should rely solely on safe investments such as bank CDs and money-market funds.
To build a nest egg large enough to see you through retirement, which may last 30 years or more, you'll need the growth that stocks provide.
From 1926 through 2008, stocks - broadly speaking, using the S&P 500 index as a measure - have posted an average annual return of 9.6% versus just 5.9 % for bonds, according to Ibbotson Associates.
Given stocks' superior long-term returns, some financial advisers recommend that investors whose retirement is still 20 years or more away put the lion's share of their portfolio in stocks and stock funds.
Of course, a 100% stock portfolio can give you some hair-raising moments (or years). In the 1973-74 bear market, for example, U.S. stocks lost 43% of their value and took three-and-a-half years just to get back to where they started.
Moreover, those whose stock portfolios are concentrated may suffer even more dramatic ups and downs.
If you don't have the stomach for steep downturns, a more prudent course is to throw some bonds into the mix. Putting 70% of your portfolio into stocks and 30% into bonds, for example, will let you capture most of the long-term growth of stocks while sheltering your investments somewhat during meltdowns.
As you approach retirement age, the idea is to shift more into bonds. But even in retirement, which can last a few decades, it pays to maintain a healthy dose of stocks (maybe upwards of 50% in your 70s, and up to 30% in your 80s).
Take care, however, to understand the kind of companies you're investing in. More volatile stocks may not be appropriate for you at this stage in your life.
If someone offered you free money, would you refuse it? Probably not. But that's just what you're doing if you don't contribute to your 401(k).
The more you contribute, the more free money you get. Here's why.
Contributing part of your salary to a 401(k) gives you three compelling benefits:
- You get an immediate tax break, because contributions come out of your paycheck before taxes are withheld, thereby lowering your taxable income.
- The possibility of a matching contribution from your employer - most commonly 50 cents on the dollar for the first 6% you save.
- You get tax-deferred growth - meaning you don't pay taxes each year on capital gains, dividends, and other distributions
Thanks to the Tax Relief Reconciliation Act of 2001, there are a few changes to 401(k)s that may be of even greater benefit to you.
For starters, the federal limit on annual contributions is set at $16,500 for the 2009 tax year, and allowed to increase every year until 2011 to keep pace with the cost of living.
The Tax Relief Act also offers catch-up provisions for workers 50 and older. That is, those 50 and older as of Jan. 31, 2009 now may contribute an additional amount, now set at $5,500, above the maximum allowable 401(k) contribution.
Keep in mind, however, while federal law sets the guidelines for what's permissible in 401(k) plans, your employer may set tighter restrictions. Plus, it may take time for the administrators of your plan to implement the changes.
What's more, there are other federal non-discrimination tests a 401(k) plan must meet, one of which applies to "highly compensated" employees. So if you make more than $110,000 in 2009 (the limit rises each year), you may not be permitted to contribute as high a percentage of your salary as some of your lower paid colleagues.
For all its tax advantages, the 401(k) is not a penalty-free ride. Pull out money from your account before age 59-1/2, and with few exceptions, you'll owe income taxes on the amount withdrawn plus an additional 10% penalty.
Also, be aware of your plan's vesting schedule - the time you're required to be at the company before you're allowed to walk away with 100% of your employer matches. Of course, any money you contribute to a 401(k) is yo(For a more detailed look at the 401(k), read Money 101: 401(k)s.)
Whether you have a 401(k) or other tax-advantaged savings plan at work, consider investing in an IRA to augment your retirement savings plan.
As with a 401(k), you don't pay taxes each year on capital gains, dividends, and other distributions from securities held in your IRA. Beyond that, there are different tax advantages, depending on which type of IRA you open.
There are two types: a traditional IRA offers tax-deferred growth, meaning you pay taxes on your investment gains only when you make withdrawals in retirement, and, if you qualify, your contributions may be deductible.
A Roth IRA, by contrast, doesn't allow for deductible contributions but offers tax-free growth, meaning you owe no tax when you make withdrawals in retirement.
A traditional IRA comes in two flavors: deductible and nondeductible. To see if you qualify for a deductible IRA, which lets you deduct all or part of your contributions from your taxable income, use the following guidelines:
If you're not eligible to contribute to a deductible IRA, you may be eligible to contribute to a Roth IRA if your AGI is below $120,000 if you're single or $176,000 if you're married and filing jointly. If you are age 50 by Jan. 31, 2009, the maximum IRA contribution limit for 2009 is $6,000; otherwise, the max is $5,000.
If you make too much to qualify for a Roth IRA and are not eligible for a deductible IRA, a nondeductible IRA is a valid option. Your contribution won't be deductible, but at least your savings will grow tax-deferred.
So which IRA is best for you? The nondeductible is the least attractive, so open one only if you don't qualify for the other two. If you have a traditional IRA, you may want to consider converting it to a Roth in 2010, especially if you made non-deductible contributions.
The Tax Increase Prevention and Reconciliation Act of 2005 permanently removes the $100,000 income ceiling for Roth conversion eligibility. For conversions in 2010, 50% of the income is taxed in 2011, and 50% in 2012, a one time opportunity.
The choice between a deductible and a Roth is more difficult, but generally you're better off in a Roth if you expect to be in a higher tax bracket when you retire.
Plus, the Roth offers more flexibility: You are not required to make mandatory withdrawals from your account when you turn 70 1/2 - as you are with other IRAs - making the Roth a great way to leave money to your heirs.
Further, if you need the money before retirement, there are more opportunities for penalty-free withdrawals.
When you change employers, you must decide what to do with your 401(k) money from your old job. You have three choices:
If you decide to move it, make sure to do so as a trustee-to-trustee transfer. That means you never touch the money. You simply direct the company housing your new account to arrange the transfer with your old employer.
That method lets you avoid the costly traps involved in a "rollover," where your old employer writes a check to you, which you then must deposit in the new account within 60 days.
Sounds easy, but your former employer automatically will withhold 20% of your money for income taxes. You get it back the next time you file your income taxes, but you are required to rollover the full amount within 60 days, leaving you to come up with the missing 20% yourself in the short-term.
If you fail to roll over the full amount within the time limit, the IRS deems the shortfall a taxable withdrawal and imposes income taxes plus a 10% penalty.
Completing 401(k) distribution forms can sometimes be confusing, says Gordon Homes at MetLife. "Be careful to ensure the form is completed in a manner consistent with your intentions," he says. "Sometimes people will check off the rollover option thinking they're transferring it. It's really ugly when that happens, because it's next to impossible to reverse."
Once you hit retirement, you get to kick back and enjoy your savings. But you'll enjoy them a lot more and a lot longer if you manage your withdrawals smartly. To give yourself the best chance of outliving your money, financial experts recommend you withdraw no more than 4% to 5% of your total nest egg every year.
You also want to minimize your tax bite. Generally speaking, the more money you leave tax-deferred in a 401(k) or IRA, the more your nest egg will grow, because a large balance can compound faster without the drag of taxes. But taxes will eventually come due on that money.
The key is to manage your money so that you pay the lowest possible tax rates on your withdrawals. That's why experts suggest in the early years of retirement you draw some of your income from your taxable accounts and some of it from your tax-deferred accounts.
You might stretch your money even farther if you convert your traditional IRA to a Roth and tap it only after depleting your taxable accounts. Remember, too, if you have a traditional IRA, you must start taking minimum required distributions when you turn 70-1/2. There are no such withdrawal requirements for a Roth.
Gordon Homes, senior financial planner at MetLife, notes that an income ceiling of $100,000 is not subject to inflation. But in 2010, the government is waiving the ceiling when you convert. Half of what's converted in 2010 is taxable in 2011, the remaining half in 2012.
If you need to make any portfolio adjustments in retirement, do so in your tax-deferred accounts, says Don Boegel, a certified financial planner in Plymouth, Minn. That way, you won't pay any taxes - or, in many instances, transaction costs - to move your money around, as you do when you sell off a taxable investment and buy another.
Your taxable account, in turn, is the best place to harvest tax losses. In this process, you sell an investment on which you've lost money and apply that loss against future capital gains, in effect reducing your tax bill.
If you find your nest egg isn't quite large enough when you retire, there are still things you can do to stretch the assets you have accumulated. For instance, you might:
Note: Everything that we do about retirement must hold on this three X-Factors:
Written by madnilk Tuesday, 24 November 2009 21:34

I'm going to talk about money and kids in this article - something that crucial which sooner the better. It's a priority to make fast and adequate action toward our kids about the art of money management. Before we go through this topic further on, let me share most thing we should know below:
1. Kids should be teach the knowledge of money - better start early.
2. Once kids learn on how the money work - they start or often shows an instinctive conservatism.
3. Seeds planted early bear fruit the same manner.
4. An allowance can be an effective teaching tool.
5. Teenagers and college-age kids have bigger responsibilities.
6. Even investing should be learned early.
The most effective way to teach kids about money - pay them!!
Most people might argue this method but - the truth always bitter. allowance is the best way to teach a child to handle financial responsibility. First of all - they have to know and old enough to count money. The key to a successful allowance is structuring it right from the outset.
Make it clear to your children what kinds of expenditures the money is for, and that they are expected to save some of it. Younger children - ages 7 to 10 - shouldn't be held accountable for items like school lunch money as part of their allowances, but it's not a bad idea for older kids and has the added benefit of fewer payments changing hands.
"Remember, allowance is supposed to be a teaching tool," - "Negotiation skills are an important part of that, which they're going to need for dealing effectively with friends, teachers and, eventually, their bosses."
So instead of grimacing when your children hit you up for a raise, decide when the time is right and then engage them in fruitful negotiations. How long since the last raise? Will new expenditures be covered? What amount of the raise will be saved long-term for expenditures requiring your approval?
The most vexing decision on allowances is how much - a decision affected by personal values, family income and common sense. Don't let your children influence the amount by saying what their friends are getting: Any normal child will bring in high figures.
One way to encourage your children to develop sound money discipline is to make savings a condition of their allowances. So try to account for this when deciding on a weekly or monthly figure.
This, of course, means setting a budget - and deciding what to do when children run afoul of their own guidelines.
One answer is to require them to save their allowances in locked boxes. But since this doesn't teach restraint and you won't always be around to oversee savings deposits, there are more instructive ways to make the point.
Remind them of these goals to keep them from straying.
The best way to encourage sound spending habits is to exhibit them. When planning a trip to the grocery or discount store, get your children involved in making a judicious list and sticking to it. This will teach them to avoid the bane of all savers: impulse buying.
Initially, keep it simple, avoiding frills and extras like overdraft protection; they need to experience the reality of bounced checks to understand record-keeping responsibilities.
Many college freshmen today have credit cards, and if your kid is to be one of them, then this, too, has a learning curve that is best experienced under your tutelage.
Before your kids acquire their credit cards, they'll need a lesson in how to use plastic responsibly. Point out that this is where most individuals' finances go seriously awry, and illustrate your point with interest tables that show the damage that 18% annual interest, compounded over the years, can do to their savings potential.
Also, tell them that credit is a privilege, not a right, and that if they abuse it, they will lose their ability to get more.
Once your teenagers get a grip on credit, introduce them to the flip side: investing. After all, that's when they extend the credit and collect the interest.
Since your teens may have too much money collecting no interest in a checking account, the best way to start is with a money-market account on which they can write a few checks.
From there, introduce them to simple, set-term investments like savings bonds and certificates of deposit. Though returns from these will be meager given the current financial downturn, they serve an important lesson and will build their confidence about investing. Then move further with appropriate approach.
p/s: I've been teaching all this thing late in my 20, but the effect was great that I'm glad to learn it - going to share with my children one day - and I'll make it in their early days.Anyway, that it from me for know - Daaaaaaaaaa 
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